Heraldic Kataginu
by Ishiyama Gen'tarou Yori'ie
The kataginu is a vest-like upper-body overgarment. Often it is made of the same fabric as the hakama, making a kataginu kamishimo, however when the kataginu does not match the hakama it is frequently an indicator of fealty or servitude. It is frequently emblazoned with the wearer's family heraldry, which makes it a good vehicle in the SCA for displaying personal heraldry or group affiliation.
Ishiyama has made a number of plain kataginu, but following his experiments in painting heraldic banners he began using the same techniques to make heraldic kataginu.
This style of kataginu, with its rectangular body panels, is more representative of the kataginu worn during the Momoyama period. The broad-shouldered kataginu that are pleated down to the collar in front are more representative of post-period styles. It is not a formal garment, but it is a typical (almost mandatory) casual "streetwear" garment for nobles, particularly those of the warrior class.
The kataginu is a simple garment to make. It is sleeveless and open at the sides. Two panels (roughly six feet long each) are sewn together down the back. Then, the front is cut to create an opening as wide as the wearer's neck. A collar, made from a half-panel, is sewn around the opening. Finally, all remaining edges are hemmed. The kataginu can be a lined garment, though none of these kataginu are lined.
Kataginu for Groups
Æthelmearc Populace
This kataginu is 100% linen, painted with the Æthelemearc populace badge
for the kingdom.
The design was stencilled and hand-painted using
Jacquard "Neopaque" acrylic fabric paints.
There are two coats of paint on all elements,
but the red dye is so energetic that
most of the white paint turned a little pink.
Barony Marche of the Debatable Lands Populace
Before the
baronial hata-jirushi banner,
was this baronial kataginu.
This was actually the first heraldic kataginu in this collection.
It is 100% black linen,
decorated with the
BMDL
populace badge. Well, nearly the populace badge.
The border should be embattled,
but I decided to go with simple for the first one.
One Knight Inne Household
The name of the household that Ishiyama and Lady Hara camp with at
Pennsic is "One Knight Inne". It's been around for more than 15 years
at this point, though it is still pretty small as households go. In
any case, these kataginu are intended to build household unity. Each
is painted with the badge of the household, a chess knight surmounted
by a chevron, in white on blue. The pieces for all three kataginu
came from a single 4-yard length of blue linen.
Kataginu for Individuals
Ishiyama Gen'tarou Yori'ie
This kataginu was made from the same blend as the Green Hemp/Linen Daimon Hitatare, and decorated to match it as well. There was a lot of fabric left over from that project, and a matching kataginu seemed like a good idea for days when the full hitatare kamishimo would be too heavy.
There is actually a coat of gold paint underneath each of
the black stripes, to keep everything level.
I was hoping more of the metallic gold would show through the black,
but it turns out that the black is pretty darn opaque.
A very fine line of gold edges each of the black stripes, though,
which is kind of a bonus.