Hitatare no Hitoe in Silkby Ishiyama Gen’tarou Yori’ie |
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Hitoe are "middle layer" garments for Japanese garb. They are not foundation garments like juban or kosode; nor are they top-layer garments like hitatare or suoh. They are worn between the foundation garments and the overgarments. They can be considered to be a kind of unattached lining. This hitoe layer, comprising a hitoe upper-body garment and a hitoe no hakama lower-body garment are made entirely of silk and hand sewn. They are the product of several months of part-time work. They are intended to be worn beneath a hitatare sugata, an outfit consisting of a hitatare upper-body garment and a matching pair of hakama. Hitatare were commonly worn as semi-formal garments in the Kamakura (1185 - 1333) and Muromachi (1334 - 1572) periods. Before that, hitatare were primary worn under armor or as hunting gamrents. After that, hitatare were supplanted by formal kimono- and haori-based outfits. The hitoe is sized to fit beneath a hitatare. The hakama are extra long, and have bindings at the bottom edge. The bindings are tied at knee-level to allow the extra fabric to blouse out beneath the knee creating a fuller look. ReferencesGluckman, Dale and Takeda, Sharon Kure, Mitsuo Master Hiraizumi Tôrokurô Tadanobu no Ason (Anthony J. Bryant) Yohei H. Izutsu |
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