His device: (Fieldless) On a hexagon Or a rabbit's head cabossed sable.

Hitatare no Hitoe in Silk

by Ishiyama Gen’tarou Yori’ie

Kanji for his name

Hitoe are "middle layer" garments for Japanese garb. They are not foundation garments like juban or kosode; nor are they top-layer garments like hitatare or suoh. They are worn between the foundation garments and the overgarments. They can be considered to be a kind of unattached lining.

This hitoe layer, comprising a hitoe upper-body garment and a hitoe no hakama lower-body garment are made entirely of silk and hand sewn. They are the product of several months of part-time work. They are intended to be worn beneath a hitatare sugata, an outfit consisting of a hitatare upper-body garment and a matching pair of hakama.

Hitatare were commonly worn as semi-formal garments in the Kamakura (1185 - 1333) and Muromachi (1334 - 1572) periods. Before that, hitatare were primary worn under armor or as hunting gamrents. After that, hitatare were supplanted by formal kimono- and haori-based outfits.

The hitoe is sized to fit beneath a hitatare. The hakama are extra long, and have bindings at the bottom edge. The bindings are tied at knee-level to allow the extra fabric to blouse out beneath the knee creating a fuller look.


Gluckman, Dale and Takeda, Sharon
When Art Became Fashion
Los Angeles, CA
Los Angeles County Museum of Art

Kure, Mitsuo
Samurai; Arms, Armor, Costume
Edison, NJ
Chartwell Books, Inc.

Master Hiraizumi Tôrokurô Tadanobu no Ason (Anthony J. Bryant)
Yűsoku Kojitsu Ron; A History of Japanese Clothing and Accessories
Retrieved: March 19. 2015
Modified: January 04, 2015

Yohei H. Izutsu
Costume History in Japan; The Kamakura Period
Retrieved: March 19. 2015
Modified: June 26, 2006

Please view other notable items in Ishiyama's Wafuku portfolio.

Ishiyama Gen'tarou Yori'ie is known mundanely as Elliott C. Evans. He can be reached via email to ishiyama{at}ee0r.com