bookmark_borderKichō Curtains

Kichō are curtains that ancient and medieval Japanese nobles used inside rooms as movable partitions. The curtains hang from a stand, so they can be moved around as needed. You can think of them as the ancient version of “pipe and drape” dividers that you often see as trade show booths, but slightly more decorative, and for the home. They differ from other kinds of Japanese curtains in that the stand makes them freestanding and more portable. You will frequently see them in illustrated scrolls as backdrops, or screens to block a figure from view. They largely fell out of favor by the end of the Momoyama period (1573) and were replaced by the more solid shoji and more decorative byobu. Wikipedia actually has a whole List of partitions of traditional Japanese architecture, and you can learn more about differences there.

Anyway, I’ve had kichō on my to-do list for a while. I assembled a working stand a few years ago, and used it to display some projects in the interim, but only got around to constructing the curtains themselves until recently. There is a little more to it than you might imagine. Here’s what I wound up with:

Kicho from the front
Kicho from the back

The white curtain bodies are twill weave silk from Dharma Trading, and the black “streamers” are black lightweight habotai also from Dharma. The curtains (or “katabira“) are double layer. Very often, the katabira would be decorated on the front panel, and plain on the back. I decided to skip the weeks that it would have taken me to decorate the fronts and skip directly to construction. Maybe I will get back to the decoration later. I made each panel by cutting 12-foot long 15-inch wide panels from the 45-inch wide fabric. I gave all of the panels a rolled-edge on the serger to simulate the selvedge that would be present on narrow-loom fabric.

The streamers (or “ribbons” according to Wikipedia) are half panels 15-feet long and 7.5-inches wide. I sewed the half-panels into tubes, turned the tubes inside out, and ironed them flat with the seams down one edge. I tucked in the loose ends and sewed them shut. The streamers needed to be longer because they are supposed to drape over the top and come a bit down the back. The slits for the lacing go all the way through both parts of the ribbons, and both layers of the katabira. I did not want to sew the dozens of buttonholes this would have required, so the slits are just cuts in the fabric that I made with my Clover Button Hole Cutter.

The lacing is basic edo yatsu braid that I made with some cotton yarn that I dyed as part of a group fiber activity back in the Autumn. I twisted up the hanks of yarn so that more dye got to some parts of the yarn than to others. The yarn itself is not super interesting, but I think it makes great pebbled-texture braids. Two lengths of braid lace the panels together, and shorter pieces of braid tie the rod that suspends the curtains (or “curtain rod”, if you will) to the crosspiece (or “te“) of the stand.

The stand itself is made of wood, as you might imagine. The base (or “tsuchii“) is a box with enough room inside to hold 20 to 30 pounds of iron weights. There are holes in the lid and a brace in the bottom to hold the two legs (or “ashi“) upright. The te rests on the tops of the ashi. The te and ashi are made of 6-foot long poplar dowels from the hardware store. The te is secured to the ashi using some custom made brass brackets that secure with brass cotter pins. The ends of the te are also embellished with a little brass. Everything wood is finished in black polyurethane to simulate lacquer.

I’m pretty happy with the way this all worked out. I may or may not make the curtains more interesting. I’d like to add more metalwork to the stand, and there are some problems with stability. A number of people have been talking about these lately, and I’m glad I went ahead and just made them. They should come in handy for defining smaller spaces in larger rooms, and they are much more portable than shoji.

bookmark_borderHemp Sankakudai Braid

I was making a simple drawstring bag out of some surplus fabric, and found myself in need of a reliable drawstring. I had previously purchased some hemp beading cord with which to experiment, so this seemed like “the opportune moment”.

Sankakudai 5-set in Hemp

I measured out a “quadruple length” to start with. Typically, I clamp my warping posts to this chest of drawers I have in my studio. If I use the full width of the chest, a “single length” is about 52 inches. If I use all three pegs, a quadruple length (approx 17 feet) is pretty simple to measure out, but sometimes is not easy to transfer to the braiding stand. It went OK this time.

Close-up on the braid

Since the hemp cord is stiff, I used my heaviest tama to make a nice tight braid. With only one color in the braid, it looks just like a “3-set” braid, but it really does have 5 strands. With these simple sankakudai braids the structure all looks the same unless you have more colors worked in the braid.

It took me a while to work through all of this material, but I wound up with plenty of hemp cord for all my drawstring needs, about 12 feet.

bookmark_borderFifth Takadai Braid

This braid has been on the takadai for about six months. I have not been working on it constantly, of course, but still. It is a double-layer double-twill braid that used both the upper and lower arms, so it is essentially two braids stitched together at the edges. Even If I had been braiding at full speed, it still would have taken me twice as long as a single-layer braid, but I had so many other things to take care of and so many other braids to do.

The final braid is about a yard long and a little more than a half-inch wide. It’s all in silk lace-weight yarn and there are 52 (!) elements with 3 ends of yarn per element. There are plenty of errors in the braid. You can probably see a few in the photo. I’m still happy with it. It was a great learning experience.

bookmark_borderRainbow Sankakudai Braids

When the call went out before Pennsic for largesse items to be gifted to the East Kingdom, one of the suggestions was “rainbow” color schemes. I did all my braids in purple and gold to match East colors, but the rainbow idea stuck in the back of my mind. I later realized that as possibly the only person in North America to own a traditional Japanese sankaku-dai, I was maybe the only person in the SCA who could create braids in the classic 7-color “Roy G. Biv” (red, orange, yellow, green, blue, indigo, violet) rainbow pattern. Seven-strand braids are possible on other braiding stands, but they are fast and smooth on the sankakudai.

Sankaku-dai set up for 7-strand rainbow braid

To work a 7-set braid on the sankakudai, you lift the top strand on left, and move it over the other left-hand threads to become the bottom strand on the right. Then you do the same from right to left. When the point of braiding gets too close to the tip, use the roller to pull it back towards the torii. When the tama get too close to the mirror of the dai, extend them as you would on a marudai. You can add twist to the strands or not, as you please. I have found very little difference in the resulting braid, but that may be because of the material I am using.

Here are the 3 rainbow braids I made in one evening on my sankakudai:

braid-20240821-1
Sankakudai 7-set rainbow braid,
8 ends of crochet cotton per strand
(twist applied)
braid-20240821-2
Sankakudai 7-set rainbow braid,
8 ends of crochet cotton per strand
(no twist)
braid-20240821-3
Sankakudai 7-set rainbow braid,
10 ends of crochet cotton per strand
(no twist)

Adding more ends per strand make a braid that is only a little wider, but much softer. I am really glad I tried this braid, and happy to add it to my repertoire. These braids are cheerful and friendly, and I know that people will enjoy receiving them.

bookmark_borderUnpopular Braiding Equipment

I will be teaching a class at the sixth international braiding conference next year in Cleveland, so I have been doing a lot of experimentation and research on a braid called “shige-uchi”.

As you know, most braiding in Japan is performed on braiding stands, called “dai”. A braiding researcher in Japan clued me in to the fact that this braid was made traditionally on three different braiding stands, but only one of those pieces of equipment is used today. The two other dai are rarely seen even in Japan these days, and most braiders outside of Japan have never heard of them.

If I lived in Japan, I could probably make an appointment to travel to one of the few braiding studios that still possess them. In the USA, if I wanted to experiment with these stands I was going to have to DIY them based on some of the few photos that exist on the Internet.

The first is a stand that appears to be specialized just for the shigeuchi braid, since it is called the “shigeuchi-dai”. The unbraided strands hang down over the sides of the dai, and are wound around weighted bobbins called “tama”. The strands are passed between other strands and moved from side to side and to create the braid at the center. The completed braid passes over the “torii” at the top of the dai and is wound around the roller at the back. For scale, this stand is about 2 feet tall.

The second stand is used for several different braids, but usually with an odd number of strands. It is called a “sankaku-dai” because of its triangular (san=3, kaku=angle) top. The strands are (again) passed from side to side, but over the top instead of across a gap. This stand is smaller, at about 16 inches tall.

Both stands are made from pine to keep them affordable, and assembled with screws to keep assembly (and disassembly) simple. Learning to braid on these dai has been fun and informative. My researcher friend in Japan tells me they are most likely the only dai of their kind in North America!

Here is a sampling of sankakudai braids in various materials and colors:

9-element shigeuchi in poly-yarn, 5-set poly-yarn, 5-set poly-yarn, 7-set poly-yarn, 5-set cotton, 7-set cotton, 10-element trapezoid poly-yarn

bookmark_borderLargesse Braids for the East

Every year at Pennsic, the Kingdoms in the SCA trade gift baskets. This year, my Kingdom is gifting the Crown of the East Kingdom with a basket of goodies that they can use during their reign or give out as largesse themselves. I decided to chip in with some of my stock of illustrated scroll blanks and some fresh medallion cord braids in East Kingdom colors.

9-strand Marudai Shigeuchi
9-strand Sankakudai Shigeuchi
9-strand Shigeuchidai Shigeuchi
7-Strand Sankakudai
9-strand Shigeuchidai Shigeuchi
7-Strand Sankakudai

These were all in violet and gold silk lace-weight yarn, with multiple ends of yarn per strand. These braids enabled me to practice some new techniques and on some new equipment, so it was totally worth it.

bookmark_borderPublication Notice

I had a short article published in the June 2024 Braid Society Newsletter! Unfortunately, you can only access the newsletter if you are a member of the Braid Society, but you can view my submitted draft of the article, “A Braid to Make: Double-Rai Gumi“, on my web site.

I’m very honored to included in the newsletter, and it also serves as promotion for my class at Braids 2025 in Cleveland. Additionally, it is a non-technical addition to my writing portfolio, which I think is cool.

bookmark_borderCoronation Largesse

I did my normal thing and made some belt favors and medallion cords for the Kingdom to celebrate the Coronation of Murdoch and Rioghnach. Twelve belt favors for some of the Kingdom awards, and six 8-strand braids for whatever they want. These will all go in the Barony’s gift basket to the Kingdom. Since the Coronation is today, I can talk about it.

bookmark_border3 Odd Braids in Silk

At the Braids 2025 conference in Cleveland, I am scheduled to teach a class on three braids for the marudai that use an odd number of elements. I realized that while I had a bunch of sample braids for those three, but none that I would consider to be “show quality”. They are mostly done in cotton or fuzzy yarn, and some of them have been attached to garments or other projects. to be “show braids”, they really should be done in silk thread and should be at least a couple of feet long. We still had plenty of reeled silk from the Georgia Yarn Company, so I decided to get busy braiding.

9-Strand “Shigeuchi Gumi” (30 inches)
17-Strand “Taka on Maru” Braid (32 inches)
15-Strand “Sankaku Gumi” (26 inches)

I braided each of these with about 16 ends of silk thread per tama. I say “about” because the lavender thread is ever so slightly thicker than the other colors. To get the 17-Strand braid relatively even, I had to go down to 12 ends of lavender pr tama. I had to work out the right patterns for each braid that would keep the colors together through the braid. That was somewhat tricky, but I now have a Jacqui Carey-style coloring grid for the 17-strand braid, which will be super handy in the future.

If any of these three braids interest you, please consider coming to the conference and signing up for my class! I am scheduled against some big names in braiding, so I would really appreciate support from the marudai braiding community.

bookmark_borderDifferent Double-Hira

Following up on the previous double-hira, which expanded the 8-strand flat braid to 16 strands by having 8 groups of 2 instead of 4 groups of 2, I decided to try the braid with 4 groups of 4. Here’s what the pattern looks like:

16-Strand “Double Hira” Gumi A

Note the asymmetrical first move. Here is what the braid looks like:

Double-Hira Gumi A in black and gold silk

I really like the look of this braid. Interestingly, the braid is much thicker along one edge than along the other. I just love the look of those zig-zag chevrons, and the stitches come out really tight.

I didn’t post a pattern for the previous double-hira, so here it is, for comparison:

16-Strand “Double Hira” Gumi B

It sure looks more confusing, but it’s the same moves, just with more groups.